The Census
The Directory
A living map of who makes denim, where, and how much of the chain is American. We map the chain, we don't grade it. When a maker sources a step abroad, that is not a mark against them. It is a measurement of how much capacity we let disappear.
Weaving is the link that broke most completely, so it is the step we hold up first.
How to read this
USAConfirmed made or woven in the USA
JapanConfirmed, sourced abroad or otherwise known
Japan?Reported but not yet verified by us
n/aStep does not apply to this maker
ConfirmedEntry verified from reporting
UnverifiedPlausible, pending our reporting
Mill
Confirmed
Mount Vernon Mills
Trion, GA · 1845
Selvedge denim on restored White Oak Draper X3 + Picanol looms; broad denim line; heritage fabrics
CottonUSA
SpinUSA
WeaveUSA
DyeUSA
Cut & Sewn/a
Trimsn/a
The headline. Brought the White Oak looms home in 2026; first US industrial selvedge in years. Profile #1, interview #1.
Mill
Confirmed
Cone Denim
USA / global ops · 1891
Denim including selvedge; historic American denim name (Proximity, White Oak lineage)
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveMexico / China
DyeMexico / Ch…?
Cut & Sewn/a
Trimsn/a
After White Oak in Greensboro, NC closed in 2017, Cone weaves its denim in Mexico and China, and markets its Jiaxing, China selvedge as a continuation of its American heritage. The iconic name, now woven offshore.
Mill (defunct)
Confirmed
Vidalia Mills
Vidalia, LA · ~2018
Rope-dyed ring-spun selvedge; briefly ran the White Oak Draper looms; pitched farm-to-shelf
CottonUSA
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewOffered integ…
Trimsn/a
The cautionary tale. Held the looms, then failed. The post-mortem (why?) is as instructive as the success stories.
Spinner/Mill
Confirmed
Parkdale Mills
Gastonia, NC · 1916
Yarn/spinning at large scale; vertically integrated cotton-to-yarn; supplies broader textile chain
CottonUSA?
SpinUSA
Weaven/a
Dyen/a
Cut & Sewn/a
Trimsn/a
The spinning link. Yarn is an under-covered but essential domestic step. Confirm denim relevance.
Vertical brand
Confirmed
American Giant
San Francisco, CA (HQ); NC/SC/CA mfg · 2011
Decentralized US production coordinating knitting, dyeing, sewing across multiple states
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA
DyeUSA
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
The scale-with-principles model. How far can domestic vertical integration go at real volume?
Vertical brand
Confirmed
Origin (Origin USA)
Farmington, ME (HQ); Asheboro, NC · 2011 (denim 2019)
Denim woven for it at Mount Vernon (GA), then cut and sewn in its own North Carolina factories at volume. Workwear, performance-stretch and heritage jeans; also boots and BJJ gis.…
CottonUSA
SpinUSA
WeaveUSA
DyeUSA
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsclaims US c…?
Often called fully vertical, but the precise picture is stronger journalism: Origin's denim is woven domestically at Mount Vernon Mills in Georgia, and Origin cuts and sews it in its own North Carolina factories, at vol…
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Gustin
San Francisco / CA mfg · ~2013
Raw selvedge + exotic fabrics; crowdfunded, true wholesale; chain stitch, flat-felled inseams
CottonVaries w/ fab…
SpinVaries
WeaveJapan / US
DyeVaries
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsorigin?
The demand-side answer to the cost problem. Crowdfunding de-risks domestic production economics. Pairs with Mount Vernon as supply/demand halves.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Raleigh Denim Workshop
Raleigh, NC · 2007
Small-batch, hand-finished jeans; craft-forward attention to detail
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA / Japan
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Small-batch craft archetype. Strong profile/interview candidate.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Tellason
San Francisco, CA · 2008
Selvedge jeans, made in USA; historically Cone White Oak fabric
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan , forme…
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
TrimsUSA
Classic SF made-in-USA label; White Oak history makes them part of the loom story.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Imogene + Willie
Nashville, TN; Los Angeles, CA (sewing) · 2009
Premium denim and apparel; heritage retail experience
CottonUSA?
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA
DyeUSA?
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Cultural touchstone of the modern American denim revival; personal-resonance story for the brand.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Texas Jeans
North Carolina · n/a
Affordable USA-made jeans; value positioning
CottonUSA?
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
The affordability case for made-in-USA, woven at Mount Vernon and sewn in Asheboro. Production was halted in early 2024, so it now reads as a cautionary data point on how thin the margins are.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
All American Clothing Co.
Ohio · ~2002
Durable work-friendly denim; traceability ('where's my cotton') focus
CottonUSA?
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Workwear + cotton traceability. The transparency story made literal.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Ginew
USA · ~2014
Native-owned premium denim/workwear; vocal about the domestic cost challenge
CottonUSA?
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA / Japan
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Native-owned, premium, and candid about why made-in-USA is hard. A truth-teller voice for the cost story.
Brand (cut & sew)
Confirmed
Crawford Denim
California · ~2012
Small-batch; uses deadstock/overstock fabric from LA rag houses
CottonVaries
SpinVaries
WeaveDeadstock?
DyeVaries
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
The deadstock workaround. Shows how small makers survive the domestic fabric scarcity directly.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Atlantic Standard
Brooklyn, NY · n/a
Bespoke jeans sewn on vintage Singer, Union Special & Reece machines; choice of fabric, patch, zip/buttons, thread, rivet
CottonVaries by f…?
SpinJapan?
WeaveJapan
DyeJapan?
Cut & SewUSA
TrimsCustomer-ch…?
The true-bespoke ideal: American hands, vintage machines, every component chosen. The 'so damn cool' archetype.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Native Denims
Dublin, Ireland · n/a
Studio visit + measurement; hand-made by a Master Maker; 100+ denims, vintage construction, selvedge/raw/stretch
CottonImported
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveItaly / Jap…?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewIreland
Trimsunconfirmed
Hand-made bespoke denim by a single master maker, but the studio is in Dublin, Ireland, not the USA as the listing assumed. A reminder to check the address before the flag.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Jack & Jeff Denim Co.
Harrisburg, PA · n/a
In-person measurement (Harrisburg metro or client location), pattern made to you, test fitting before final cut
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Real in-person, pattern-and-toile bespoke process. The intimate, local model the thesis says domestic does best.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Michael Andrews Bespoke
New York, NY · n/a
Custom jeans/chinos to exact measurements; pattern kept on file; hundreds of fabrics incl. Japanese selvedge; from $445
CottonImported
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan / oth…?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Established NYC bespoke house extending tailoring into denim. Pattern-on-file repeat model.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Williamsburg Garment Co.
Greenpoint, Brooklyn, NY · 2011
Denim specialist (founder Maurice Malone); ~15% custom orders; selvedge options; Black-owned
CottonVaries by f…?
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan / Italy…
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Designer-led, partly custom, storied founder. A profile rich in person and history.
Made-to-measure (offshore)
Confirmed
Sumissura / Hockerty
Online (mfg overseas) · n/a
Online 3D configurator, made-to-order; tailors cut on order; broad fit/detail customization
CottonImported
SpinImported
WeaveImported
DyeImported
Cut & SewChina
TrimsOverseas
The asterisk: true made-to-measure FIT, but sewn overseas. Belongs on the map to show custom-fit is not the same as American-made.
Made-to-measure (bespoke)
Confirmed
Fitted Underground
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY · 2014
Custom and made-to-measure selvedge jeans, shirts and jackets, cut and sewn to the wearer's measurements in one Williamsburg workshop. Self-taught founder Eric Steffen, est. 2014.
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
American hands, Japanese cloth, in one Williamsburg building. 'Not outsourced. Not shipped overseas.' Founder Eric Steffen taught himself the trade and builds custom-fit jeans from the ground up, the bespoke model the t…
Made-to-order (domestic)
Confirmed
Todd Shelton
East Rutherford, NJ · n/a
Made-in-own-factory jeans; fit-customization model
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan / Ita…?
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
Owns its factory, a rarity. Direct, transparent, fit-focused. Good model-contrast profile.
Made-to-order (domestic)
Confirmed
Blue Delta Jeans
Mississippi · ~2012
Custom-fit, made-to-measure jeans to the wearer's exact measurements
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveUSA / Italy…
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUSA
Trimsunconfirmed
The bespoke-fit angle. Custom measurement as a domestic value proposition.
Made-to-order (offshore)
Confirmed
Sene (Sene Studio)
Los Angeles, CA · 2019
Online custom-fit jeans + made-to-order US tees; algorithmic fit; collab denim collections
Cottonunconfirmed
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewChina
Trimsunconfirmed
Custom-fit jeans designed in Los Angeles, but the jeans themselves are sewn by a manufacturing partner in China (only its tees are US-made). On the map as custom-fit, not American-made.
Mill (teacher)
Confirmed
Kaihara
Fukuyama, Hiroshima, Japan · 1893
World-leading selvedge denim mill; vertically integrated dyeing/weaving
CottonImported
SpinJapan
WeaveJapan
DyeJapan
Cut & Sewn/a
Trimsn/a
A global standard-bearer. Covered as a master to learn from, per the honesty principle.
Mill (teacher)
Confirmed
Kuroki
Japan (Okayama) · 1950
Heritage Japanese denim mill; rope-dyed selvedge
CottonImported?
SpinOutsourced?
WeaveJapan
DyeJapan
Cut & Sewn/a
Trimsn/a
Okayama mastery. Teaches what mature, uninterrupted craft capacity looks like.
Mill/brand (teacher)
Confirmed
Collect (Japan Blue)
Japan (Kojima) · 1992
Selvedge weaving + own brands (Japan Blue, Momotaro)
CottonImported
SpinJapan
WeaveJapan
DyeJapan
Cut & SewJapan?
TrimsJapan
Kojima vertical model: mill + brand under one roof. A blueprint for integration.
Brand/mill (teacher)
Confirmed
John Bull
Japan · n/a
Bought vintage US looms dumped in the 1960s; high-quality selvedge ever since
CottonImported
SpinJapan
WeaveNot a weaver?
DyeJapan
Cut & SewJapan
TrimsJapan
A cut-and-sew house in Kojima, Okayama (founded 1952), not a weaving mill. We checked the romantic story that it runs the vintage American looms the US dumped in the 1960s and could not substantiate it: Japanese selvedg…
Brand (teacher, UK)
Confirmed
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers
London, UK · 2016
London-made selvedge and organic jeans; repair-for-life ethos
CottonImported
Spinunconfirmed
WeaveJapan / Italy
Dyeunconfirmed
Cut & SewUK
TrimsYKK / UK / Tu…
The UK revival parallel. Shows another country rebuilding craft, with a lifetime-repair model worth borrowing.
Hardware (teacher)
Confirmed
Spring '85
Italy · 1985
Press/jeans buttons, rivets, hooks; entirely Made in Italy; custom logo hardware
Cottonn/a
Spinn/a
Weaven/a
Dyen/a
Cut & Sewn/a
TrimsItaly
Foreign incumbent / teacher. Shows the craft-hardware capacity that thrives abroad. Jacob Davis irony: rivet was a US invention.
Hardware (teacher)
Confirmed
Timay & Tempo
Turkey · n/a
Buttons, rivets and trims; OEKO-TEX certified; supplies global denim brands
Cottonn/a
Spinn/a
Weaven/a
Dyen/a
Cut & Sewn/a
TrimsTurkey
Major global trims supplier. Represents how offshored the hardware link is, even for sustainability-forward brands.
Hardware (US)
Unverified
Scovill Fasteners
Clarkesville, GA · 1802
Jeans rivets, buttons, fasteners, zippers for jeanswear; long-standing US trims supplier
Cottonn/a
Spinn/a
Weaven/a
Dyen/a
Cut & Sewn/a
TrimsUSA?
Now Morito Scovill Americas, owned by Japan's Morito. It self-reports up to 80 million American-made fasteners a week at Clarkesville, GA (Berry-compliant, with a CAGE code), but it also runs Asian and Mexican plants, a…
Hardware (US)
Confirmed
YKK (US operations)
Lawrenceburg, KY (US ops) · 1934 (JP); US ops decades
Buttons, rivets & zippers forged in Kentucky; supplies traceability-minded US denim brands (Taylor Stitch, Bluer)
Cottonn/a
Spinn/a
Weaven/a
Dyen/a
Cut & Sewn/a
TrimsUSA
Confirmed making jeans hardware (buttons/rivets/zips) in Lawrenceburg, KY. Japanese-owned co running one of the last domestic hardware lines, an echo of the whole thesis. The answer to 'who still makes a jeans button he…
A note on method
Every entry carries a reporting status. Confirmed means we verified it from trade reporting or a primary source. Unverified means it is plausible and widely repeated but not yet confirmed by us, so we never present it as fact. As we do our own reporting, brand by brand, the unverified marks turn into confirmed ones. That is the work. This directory is the starting line, not the finished record.